Thursday, June 11, 2009

Cordovan Shoes: A Primer

There's no doubt in my mind that the phrase "Shoes make the man" absolutely holds true, even today. Jeans and a white tee can go from boring to chic with the right pair of distressed wingtips. Conversely, even the most pricey bespoke suit can be completely spoiled with a pair of cheaply made dress shoes. A classic pair of leather-soled lace-ups, wingtips, or loafers, when cared for properly, can often last as long as 10 years. One particular type of leather has been known to outlive even its wearer: shell cordovan. (Not to be confused with the color cordovan - the burgundy hue that shell cordovan shoes are often dyed.) It's tough as nails, and especially water resistant - and for a good reason. It's made from the shell, or hind quarters, of a horse. While it takes time to break these suckers in, once they mold to your foot, they can be as comfortable as wearing nothing at all. Yes, they are quite expensive, but honestly - by using cedar shoe trees, polishing them by hand, and getting them resoled every few years, you're bound to see some return on that investment. Here are a few of my favorites:

Darlton Tassel Loafer (pictured above), $795, ralphlauren.com

In the chukka boot format, cordovan makes particular sense, as it will keep the rain from getting your socks too wet this fall. Alden Cordovan Chukka Boot, $568, aldenshop.com

Who can resist a classic penny? P.S., if you're not feeling the burgundy color, these also come in black. Please, don't put pennies in them. It isn't 1958. Brooks Brothers Cordovan Loafer, $598, brooksbrothers.com

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